The Rise of Modern Korean Cuisine in Los Angeles
Modern Korean food is currently enjoying a renaissance in Los Angeles, with an exciting shift toward a more approachable yet authentic dining experience. Restaurants like Hojokban, Yi Cha, and Mulberry are at the forefront of this culinary movement, offering a distinctive take on traditional Korean flavors. Notably, Mulberry, located in the vibrant Sawtelle Japantown area, stands out for its ambitious menu crafted by a team of experienced restaurateurs, including Jennifer Chon, David Lee, and chef Curtis Park from Benu.
A Vibrant Dining Experience
Mulberry’s interior reflects a nostalgic tavern style, designed by Matt Winter. The warm, cozy atmosphere embraces diners, especially on cooler nights in Los Angeles. The mix of wood and marble tables creates a timeless feel, while comfortable banquettes invite guests to linger. However, diners may want to avoid the small back room, which can feel somewhat cramped. Instead, opting for a spot near the front or in the central seating area enhances the overall experience, allowing for better ambiance and comfort.
Culinary Philosophy and Menu Highlights
The culinary vision for Mulberry aims to offer a neighborhood restaurant that embodies the Korean American experience. As Chon described, the restaurant serves as a “conversation starter,” introducing patrons to the essentials of Korean cuisine through contemporary presentations. The menu successfully balances familiar flavors with modern interpretations, making it appealing to both newcomers and seasoned fans of Korean food.
Dishes such as cold sliced fish served with dongchimi, crispy mung bean pancakes, and stone pot bibimbap are crafted to showcase the freshness and vibrancy of the ingredients. These offerings reflect an effort to make Korean flavors accessible to those unfamiliar with the cuisine, yet they do not stray far from the authentic roots that many expect from Korean dining.
Unique Beverage Offerings
One of the standout features of Mulberry is its thoughtfully curated cocktail menu, which integrates unique Korean ingredients. The inclusion of beverages like Banana Milk-infused fresh makgeolli is a creative nod to Korean drinking culture, allowing guests to explore traditional flavors in a new context. This aspect not only enhances the dining experience but also offers an engaging way for patrons to connect with Korean heritage.
The Atmosphere and Dining Dynamics
While the bustling environment of the restaurant can be electric, the high-energy atmosphere is not for everyone. Diners will find that the volume can fluctuate significantly depending on the night, making it an ideal spot for social gatherings but possibly overwhelming for those seeking a quiet dinner. The restaurant’s design allows for plenty of seating, but it’s important to choose wisely to ensure a comfortable experience.
Catering to All Diners
The appeal of Mulberry may vary depending on diners’ familiarity with Korean cuisine. For long-time enthusiasts, the experience might seem somewhat simplified compared to other establishments like Baroo or Kinn, which dive deeper into the complexities of Korean flavors. However, for first-time visitors, Mulberry serves as a welcoming introduction, providing a delightful opportunity to sample the richness of Korean dining without trekking to Koreatown.
In this culinary landscape, modern Korean cuisine in Los Angeles is evolving, blending traditional tastes with innovative dining formats. Restaurants like Mulberry are helping to reshape perceptions and experiences of Korean food, making it a must-visit for locals and tourists alike.



