The Journey to Restaurant Ki: A Culinary Experience
When Ki Kim envisioned his dining experience at Restaurant Ki, a modern Korean tasting-menu counter nestled in the basement of Little Tokyo’s Kajima Building, he was acutely aware of the need for balance in his multi-course menu. Each dish is designed to guide the diner through an experience that seamlessly transitions from lighter seafood snacks to more substantial, flavorful offerings.
From Blanca to a Personal Vision
Just prior to the pandemic, Kim honed his craft as the sous chef at Blanca, a once-renowned Brooklyn restaurant that, though now closed, left a lasting impact on the culinary scene. One standout dish there—a raviolo bursting with ’nduja—served as an inspiration for Kim’s own restaurant, where he sought to replicate that sense of satisfaction with a bowl of noodles as the centerpiece.
After opening in January 2025, Kim, alongside his dedicated team, landed on an adaptable noodle recipe that fulfills his vision. This dish isn’t just about satisfying hunger; it acts as the soul of his menu, conveying warmth and heart through flavor.
A Unique Tasting Experience
Restaurant Ki isn’t just defined by any single dish but by the cumulative flow of the meal. Think of it as an intricate story told through flavors: a sudden pop of minty perilla-leaf sorbet, the surprising union of gochujang and tarragon on the palate, and the depth of a splotch of doenjang enhancing a bright beurre blanc.
These flavors stem from a place of skill and creativity, leading diners to reflect on the craft behind each bite. For Kim, the noodles symbolize a bridge between thrilling culinary technique and heartfelt storytelling.
Collaborating with a Noodle Master
Kim collaborates with Keizo Shimamoto, known for his acclaimed Ramen Shack and pop-ups featuring inventive ramen dishes. Shimamoto’s customized noodles, which possess the right springiness while holding up in a concentrated Dungeness crab stock, juxtapose texture with the intense umami of the broth.
The dish evokes a sensory experience reminiscent of a seafood-studded chawanmushi, with sweet crabmeat swirling through a broth that mirrors the Milky Way. Garnished with smoky-sweet grilled eel, fragrant pine mushrooms, and a touch of caviar, it exemplifies luxury without overshadowing the dish’s nourishing essence.
Pricing and Ambiance
At $300 per person, Kim’s menu is meticulously curated, offering a journey that is longer and more elaborate than his previous tasting menu at Kinn, where he famously paired crispy octopus with gochujang aioli—a nod to his time spent at Jungsik, a game-changing modern Korean eatery in New York.
Kim’s approach marks a bold step in the ever-evolving landscape of Korean cuisine in Los Angeles. After his previous restaurant’s closure, he quickly garnered support from fellow chefs and landed various roles before the opportunity to establish Restaurant Ki arose unexpectedly.
The Hidden Entrance
Accessing Restaurant Ki requires navigating through the second floor of the attached parking garage, where security guards assist newcomers in locating the single elevator that descends to the basement. This entrance adds an element of intrigue and exclusivity to the dining experience. Upon descending, diners are greeted by a serene antechamber, where they are seated in anticipation of the culinary adventure to come.
The Restaurant Environment
Inside, the atmosphere is thoughtfully designed; muted stone and earthy tones create a calm ambiance punctuated by playful elements, such as whimsical cutlery with ceramic ladybugs and duck liver served in a hen-shaped vessel. The music selection, largely 80s R&B—think Luther Vandross—adds a personal touch that enhances the charm of the experience.
A Culinary Team’s Rhythm
In the back kitchen, Kim, chef de cuisine Ryan Brown, and their crew deftly orchestrate a culinary ballet, crafting each dish with precision. Their first offering—a contemporary rendition of bugak, a fried snack—sets the stage for what’s to follow, each bite a tribute to the complex history and artistry that informs Kim’s work.
As diners and staff navigate this intimate space, a sense of camaraderie develops, transforming a simple meal into a shared experience. From the signature octopus to layers of perilla sorbet, each dish resonates with Kim’s passion and philosophy of cooking, echoing the rich traditions of his South Korean roots while seamlessly blending them with innovative techniques.
Ultimately, at Restaurant Ki, diners are not just consuming a meal; they are participating in an intricate narrative woven through the artistry of food and the warmth of human connection.
