Discovering the Bread Renaissance in L.A.: A Journey Through Flavor
A Last-Minute Dinner at Bar Etoile
In November, while catching up with a friend before her flight, I found myself at Bar Etoile, a charming restaurant in Los Angeles. Owners Jill Bernheimer and her team have elevated the dining experience, showcasing not only delightful dishes but also a fantastic wine selection from her wine shop, Domaine L.A. As we indulged in a creative take on steak tartare dressed with Caesar salad flavors, Bernheimer excitedly shared a recommendation that would set the stage for my next culinary adventure: “Seek out David Wilcox’s bread,” she urged, extolling the virtues of sourdough from Hail Mary Pizza, which Wilcox had previously operated.
A New Source for Incredible Bread in L.A.
Fast forward to last Friday, when I stumbled upon Wilcox’s pop-up, Two Rose, at Proof Bakery. Nestled comfortably in the sunny front window of this beloved bakery, it took mere seconds to understand Bernheimer’s enthusiasm. With a verbosely tantalizing display, Wilcox presented an array of five distinct bread types—each crafted with an artisan’s attention to detail.
His country loaf, a substantial boule, showcased two types of organic flour milled from hard red wheat: Yecora Rojo and Type 80, a fine blend that captures the essence of the whole grain. “Help yourself,” he invited, motioning toward a tempting cutting board. As I tore into a sample, the airy, pudding-like crumb delighted my palate, enveloped in the unmistakable tang of expert fermentation.
An Artisanal Experience
At Two Rose, Wilcox is not merely crafting bread but also rebuilding a legacy rooted in excellence. His approach to sourdough involves a careful selection of ingredients, utilizing only levain and no added yeast. With a unique blend of four flours, including rye and a prized variety from Tehachapi Grain Project, his baguettes burst with a resounding crackle, layered with malty undertones that invite endless appreciation.
From honey-glazed spelt loaves to pumpkin seed-crusted squash bread, each offering uniquely accommodates flavor experimentation, perfect for gourmet sandwiches or decadent breakfasts. One particular loaf—a whole-grain porridge infused with ginger and raisins—transforms into a comforting toast, perfect alongside morning coffee.
Wilcox’s Journey Back to L.A.
Wilcox, with years of experience as a pizzeria owner, has navigated the culinary landscape with commitment and passion. After selling Hail Mary, he traveled extensively, reconnecting with bread royalty in the Bay Area and honing his skills alongside experts in the field. However, upon his return to L.A., the desire to run a traditional establishment faded; instead, he embraced the flexibility of pop-ups.
Each appearance of Two Rose reflects an evolving canvas of baked goods and flavors. Beyond Proof Bakery, Wilcox ventured to Granada, a coffee shop that has captured the hearts of Echo Park locals. His pizza, crafted in the cozy confines of his home in Melrose Hill, features fresh ingredients showcasing his culinary philosophy while remaining intimate and approachable.
Expanding Horizons: Pizza and Morning Pop-Ups
As he continues to develop his offerings, Wilcox plans to launch morning pop-ups featuring cinnamon rolls and crescent-shaped medialuna pastries paired with complimentary coffee. Picture this: a sunlit room buzzing with chatter, the aroma of freshly baked goods swirling in the air, and the satisfaction of indulging in bread that embodies a chef’s soul.
With each slice of Wilcox’s country loaf served alongside French salted butter, the experience transcends mere sustenance, fostering a communal celebration of culinary artistry.
Speaking of Bread…
While my bread journey primarily focuses on Wilcox and his creations, it aligns with a broader exploration of gastronomy in L.A. One hot spot that stands out is Saqartvelo in Van Nuys, one of the rare Georgian restaurants in the area. Here, the culinary team, composed of women from Tbilisi, presents a vibrant menu filled with traditional dishes like khinkali and khachapuri, spotlighting not only their cultural heritage but also the art of baking.
Whether you’re cosseting in the warmth of Wilcox’s loaves or indulging in the cheesy delights of Georgian cuisine, Los Angeles is undeniably experiencing a bread renaissance that is rich and multifaceted. Each bite tells a story, blending history, innovation, and the joy of shared meals.
