A Culinary Adventure: The Cheeseburger Tartare at Evil Cooks
Discovering the Unexpected
It’s rare that I come across a dish so bewildering it shocks me mid-bite, leaving me more than a little dumbfounded. Alex Garcia’s cheeseburger tartare is one such creation, a thrilling amalgamation that defies traditional culinary boundaries.
The Components of Innovation
At first glance, this dish might seem like an absurdity: a mound of hand-sliced rib-eye, perfectly diced, dressed in a spirited vinaigrette that zings with pickle brine, soy sauce, mustard, and a squirt or two of ketchup. A bright yellow square of American cheese drapes over the top, its unmistakable waxy sheen complementing the entire ensemble, buried under a heap of crispy fried onions.
This dish was a recent special at Evil Cooks, the year-old restaurant co-owned by Garcia and his wife, Elvia Huerta, in El Sereno.
A Twist on Tradition
When you dig in, you’re not just eating steak tartare but experiencing a high-octane, avant-garde twist on the classic cheeseburger. Imagine stripping a cheeseburger down to its essential elements, served in raw form. Even the slice of cold cheese, once remixing and mashing into a spoonful of tartare, manages to impart a sense of cohesion and unexpected lusciousness.
In the words of the German heavy metal band Accept, “wrong is right, wrong is right.” This encapsulates the ethos that fuels Evil Cooks: a celebration of culinary chaos.
The Atmosphere of Evil Cooks
The atmosphere at Evil Cooks reflects the passion and creativity behind the dishes. The walls are swathed in black, adorned with a collage of music posters ranging from Jim Morrison to Rammstein. Outback, whimsical decor punctuates the Edgy yet inviting experience—think crying angels and skeletons emerging from coffins.
As Metallica cranks through the stereo, Garcia and Huerta transform the kitchen into a culinary stage where boldness and creativity reign. Many of their captivating dishes emerge spontaneously, a result of spirited invention in the hours leading up to service.
Signature Dishes Beyond the Tartare
Evil Cooks is not limited to the cheeseburger tartare. It showcases a variety of standout offerings: chewy dumplings filled with silky black beans under a cascade of queso fresco and salsa macha; crispy, golden buñuelos filled with mushroom pâté; and a whimsical dessert of arroz con leche nestled with chocolate mazapan, all wrapped in crisp nori.
Each bite at Evil Cooks delivers a flavor that pushes boundaries, challenging diners to embrace the unorthodox.
A Culinary Journey with Personal Roots
Garcia’s journey began with a tattoo idea, a reflection of the heavy-metal music he adores. Tired of the constraints of executive chef life, he yearned to return to his roots: “I’m not a chef, I’m a cook,” he asserts. This philosophy has blossomed into a business that allows for maximum creativity and embrace of culinary spontaneity.
The couple’s venture started with popup events that drew lines for their unforgettable maximalist tacos, such as the Poseidon taco—octopus al pastor, roasted on a trompo until charred, and slathered with black recado negro, a marinade learned from his Yucatán stepfather.
Immersed in Flavors
Bringing the focus back to the cuisine, each plate at Evil Cooks tells a story interconnected with Garcia’s heritage. The tom yum aguachile was derived from a Kamikaze dinner for Huerta’s birthday, featuring robust flavors of lemon juice, lemongrass, ginger, and a splash of heat from habaneros, artfully presented with fresh tortilla chips shaped like half moons.
Even the tostadas stand out, crafted from black corn sourced from Michoacán and distinctly thick, offering a phenomenal canvas for various salsas.
The exploration of these inventive dishes becomes a deeper dive into the culinary identity that Garcia and Huerta have curated at Evil Cooks—a place where rebellion meets flavor and tradition intertwines with creativity.
More Than a Meal
Evil Cooks is more than just a restaurant; it’s a manifestation of Garcia and Huerta’s culinary philosophy. They invite patrons to explore dishes that may challenge their palates, pushing boundaries while offering robust flavors that leave a lasting impression.
In their chaotic kitchen, flavors collide in innovative ways, creating an experience where every dish, from savory starters to whimsical desserts, celebrates not just food, but the essence of creative, culinary expression.
Embrace the Unexpected
Dining at Evil Cooks is an exhilarating experience, encouraging diners to shed preconceived notions and embrace the unexpected. Allow yourself to be swept away in the whirlwind of flavors and textures—that’s where the real adventure lies.
