A Culinary Phoenix: The Rebirth of Bäco Mercat at Le Dräq
The culinary landscape in Los Angeles is buzzing with excitement as the beloved Bäco Mercat makes a triumphant return—but this time it’s under the new hybrid moniker Le Dräq. Chef Josef Centeno, the visionary behind this unique dining concept, has cleverly blended elements of his former restaurants Bar Amá and Takoria to create a vibrant dining experience that aims to be both nostalgic and innovative.
A Taste of What’s to Come
Centeno’s culinary journey took a dramatic turn when he closed Bar Amá on December 19, 2026, only to reopen the next evening as Le Dräq, incorporating the essence of Bäco Mercat—a location he shuttered in 2020 amid the pandemic. He describes this transformation as a “continuation,” a “phoenix rising from the ashes,” rather than a simple reboot of the past.
“Bäco just kind of stopped during COVID,” Centeno reflects. “I don’t feel like I had finished what I started there, and I’ve been trying to figure out the best way to bring it back without feeling like I was trying to repeat something.”
The Signature Bäco
Originally opening in 2011, Bäco Mercat was renowned for its namesake bäco—a soft, supple flatbread that boldly redefined traditional sandwiches. The new menu at Le Dräq offers a reimagined version of this culinary delight, now a cheese-infused flatbread with shredded Oaxacan string cheese folded into the dough. Its softness and chewiness stand out, cradling fillings like fried shrimp or Wagyu short rib.
Additionally, the nostalgia continues with other iconic dishes such as the creamy ricotta cavatelli and chicken “ribs” glazed in chili vinegar. Centeno emphasizes the feedback from enthusiasts has been crucial, noting, “People have been pretty continually asking for [Bäco Mercat].”
Memorable Flavors and New Inspirations
But what about the innovations? The new menu’s aesthetic mimics a vinyl record, segmented into two sides: the A-side featuring fan favorites from both Bäco Mercat and Bar Amá, while the B-side focuses on Takoria’s inventive, vegetable-forward offerings. For example, the mushroom coca—a slim, cracker-like dish featuring dehydrated shiitake mushrooms and a drizzle of anchovy juice—could easily become a bar-style pizza sensation.
Diners can anticipate around eight dishes from each menu section, showcasing Centeno’s prowess for amalgamating culinary influences and techniques into a cohesive dining experience. Special offerings like the persimmon salad with kale or roasted acorn squash demonstrate his focus on fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Harmonizing Dining and Atmosphere
Completing the dining experience is the ambiance. Centeno’s attention to detail sees meticulous changes from the interior décor to the sound system. Here, a genre-blending soundtrack—from The Smiths to Wilco—sets the tone for a meal that feels both rhythmic and alive.
“I was trying to recreate the feeling of Bäco but still have the Amá thread,” he explains. This desire for familiarity yet fresh excitement permeates every aspect of Le Dräq.
The Signature Burger
One dish stirring excitement is the new Le Dräq burger. Drawing on his father’s butcher skills, this thick cheeseburger boasts a blend of chuck, sirloin, and other cuts, topped with Havarti cheese and accompanied by dill Kennebec potato fries. The burger also features a house-made milk bread bun, the same fluffy delight served at Centeno’s fine dining establishment, Orsa & Winston.
Future Aspirations
Centeno is keen on expanding the restaurant’s offerings to include lunch and brunch service. The prospect of enjoying dishes like shrimp bäco during daytime hours makes the future even more promising.
In the vibrant culinary scene of downtown Los Angeles, Le Dräq stands as a testament to resilience, creativity, and the magnetic draw of a chef who knows how to feed not only appetites but also the spirit. As eager diners prepare to line up for reservations, the restaurant promises an eclectic dining experience steeped in tradition, bold innovation, and a sincere connection to Los Angeles’s diverse flavors.
